Basics of Priming Brass Ammo

by Bob ShellPriming ammo is easy and with the right tools it can also be a fun family effort.

Apache Junction, AZ -(AmmoLand.com)- The following is a basic primer on reloading Primers and some tips on re-priming ammo brass cases.

Picking up after you inspect and clean your cases, the next step is usually depriming and sizing the case.

It is necessary to remove the used primer in order to produce new ammo.

While depriming and priming are mechanically simple, there are some difficulties in priming the case more so then people realize.

There are two main sizes of primers large and small. Further, there are rifle and handgun primers and it is important to use the correct ones. Then there are standard and magnum primers and some other things to consider. As a rule, rifle primers have a thicker cup because they have a stronger firing pin and they operate at a higher pressure. In addition, a rifle primer is slightly taller then Handgun Primers so it would be difficult to seat a rifle primer in a handgun case without it sticking out.

There are many reasons not to use the wrong primer. A rifle primer has a different formula then the handgun type because it ignites more powder over a longer period of time. Like any reloading chore, priming must be done correctly in order to have safe and reliable ammo. Besides box primers there are other primer types such as Berdan, rimfire, and pinfire but their explanations are for another time. One thing is if you are reloading foreign cases especially military, they may have Berdan primers. (Read More on Corrosive Ammo with Berdan Primers.)

While it is possible to reload Berdan primers, it takes special tools and primers to accomplish that and for the most part isn't worth the trouble. They have two holes offset instead of the center hole of a Boxer primer and frequently they are a different size.

While not always necessary, cleaning the primer pocket is a good idea. After a few firings residue can build up in the pocket making it more difficult to seat a primer. All you need is a very inexpensive tool, like the Lyman Primer Pocket Cleaner or proper size screwdriver and a pocket can be cleaned very rapidly. If you shoot black powder cartridges then the primer pocket should always be cleaned as well as the rest of the case. Black powder produces a lot of residue, which must be dealt with after each firing.

Priming must be done correctly in order to have good ammo. The biggest mistake I see is primers that are not fully seated. Such ammo will cause various problems and can easily be avoided. A high primer in a revolver will not allow the cylinder to revolve as it is caught on the recoil shield. High primers can cause misfires and inconsistent ignition and misfires and hangfires. In a tubular magazine, there is the possibility that a high primer can go off in the magazine causing a chain fire. A slam fire is also a possibility in a semi auto gun.

Since priming is so simple all of these issues can be avoided by taking time to inspect your ammo.

A primer should be seated from .001 to .002 below the case head. If you have a doubt just set the loaded case on a flat hard surface and see if it rocks. If so the primer may be set high and be sticking out.

If you notice that the primers seem too deep then check and make sure you are using the right ones. A pistol primer in a rifle case may be too low and be noticeable deep. If that turns out to be the case, then remove and use the right primer. A handgun primer in a rifle case may under ignite the powder causing a weak round or hangfire. Removing a live primer isn't dangerous if done carefully, wearing safety glasses is never a bad idea. While extremely uncommon, a primer can go off during loading and it may be a mechanical flaw with the equipment. That usually happens with the electric machines.

If you load military cases, they have a crimp that has to be removed. A couple of companies make swages though personally I don't care for them. I use a reamer attached to a drill. It may be time consuming but I don't load large quantities of any ammo. Using a drill with a reamer works very well.

My reamer is a L.E. Wilson Case Chamfer Tool, that like everything else can be purchased at Brownells. Keep in mind that your ammo will reflect the amount of effort that was put into making it. If you cut corners and do a half way job the ammo will reflect that.

There are several ways to prime cases from the simple one at a time on a reloading press to various tools designed especially for that job. A progressive press also primes cases during the operation.

Brownells is my go to place if you are looking for a good selection for reloading equipment and supplies I would suggest that you pull up the Brownell website . They have a large selection of priming and other reloading tools. The nice thing is if you are not sure what is best for your needs, just call one of their techs and they can steer you in the right direction on any reloading questions you may have. They also distribute reloading supplies such as bullets and cases.

At this time, I use a single stage press like the RCBS Rockchucker Supreme Press with the priming equipment that comes with the press. I do small amounts of custom and obsolete ammo, so for me that is practical. If you do a lot of ammo at one time then one of the many Progressive Presses will be more practical.

A typical progressive reloading press can do from 300 to 500 rounds an hour depending on a couple of factors. If you really produce a lot of ammo, there are larger, faster, and more expensive progressive units available. They all have the capability of priming during the reloading operation. I have used two progressives quite a bit and they do speed up the operation.

The Dillon 550 Reloading Press is a very popular press and is widely distributed. It has some advantages such as quick caliber change and a reasonable price. The same can be said for some of the other units in that price range. The Dillon has a guarantee and the only fault I find with it is the priming parts wear out so it is a good idea to have some extra parts available so when that happens the parts can be replaced easily. If the parts wear and are not replaced the priming will suffer. They may not feed or go in straight or some other annoying situation. Spare parts can ease that situation a lot. Dillon sells spare parts kits and I advise you to have at least one. I have used a Star Reloading Press a lot and the system is more complicated but never wears out.

There is an adjustment that allows you to seat the primers correctly but it is more costly then some of the other presses.

If you are having problems priming your ammo brass, like properly seating the primers, there can be a couple of causes. Check everything to make sure nothing came loose as it may be that simple. Dirt or grease in the working parts will cause headaches though easy to remedy. Some progressive presses have adjustments that need to be reset from time to time. Star is one of those.

Sometimes if you change primer brands an adjustment may be necessary as some primer cups are harder than others. I have found that if a shell holder wears out in the groove the case isn't tight and can cause a primer to go in crooked.

Again, a new shellholder can fix that problem easily. It is usually the simple things that makes a difference in how your reloads will turn out.

About Bob Shell:

A Custom Reloader of Obsolete and Antique Ammo, Bob Shell, writes about the subject of Guns, Ammo, Shooting and Related Subjects. For more information, visit: www.bobshellsblog.blogspot.com.